Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon

The stunning Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon

Iceland has some stunning and spectacular canyons so to pick out the best of them is not an easy task. However, I suspect that Fjaðrárgljúfur would rank up there in most people’s top five. This place is incredible, yet until relatively recently it was not very well known. Almost unpronounceable for us English speakers, the Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon down on the south coast, near Kirkjubæjarklaustur, follows the serpentine contours of the Fjaðrá river. From above, the shape of the canyon resembles that of a feather and this is what gives Fjaðrárgljúfur It’s name - literally “Feather Canyon”. This place became very much more well-known in 2015 when Justin Bieber filmed much of his video for his song "I'll show you" in the canyon, and suddenly Fjaðrárgljúfur was on everyone’s ‘must-visit’ list (although it must be said that many people simply refer to it as the Justin Bieber Canyon!).

One of the many narrow and very high serpentine paths as seen on the pop video

Between 2016-2017 the number of visitors to the canyon increased by 80%!! And in 2018 around 300,000 people visited - which is equivalent to almost the whole population of Iceland…! Sadly, because the canyon just couldn’t withstand this much traffic, it ended up being closed to tourists during much of 2019 in order to give the vegetation a chance to recover. Luckily this was followed by a couple of years when, due to Covid, there were fewer tourists. When so many people tramp over the same area, particularly in the colder wetter months, it can cause huge damage to the local flora as it gets little chance to recover as it thaws. Even when we went this summer, the satnav told us that it is still closed, and indeed the actual canyon and the river bank is still a no-access area. The path along the top of the canyon is open however, although visitors are asked to keep to the pathways and to let the fragile flowers, grass and mosses recover.

Some of the areas that you cannot currently access in order to let the fragile flora recover

This highlights the tricky and complex relationship that Icelanders must have with tourism. Most Icelanders are inordinately proud of their country and love people to come and see it - and indeed, tourism is one of Iceland’s major industries, boosting the economy. And yet, when so many people visit a country this beautiful for only a week or two, they naturally want to see everything and to get those ‘instagram-worthy’ pictures…. Sadly, this means that in many places it is very common to see people climbing over fences or railings to get right out to the edge of a cliff drop or right to the base of a waterfall, despite the politely-worded signs that ask us not to, so that they can get ‘that perfect shot’ to post to social media. Every year this leads to injuries, even deaths and, of course, damage to the fragile eco-structure of this beautiful country. Much as I too want the perfect picture, the longer I live here, the more protective I feel about this gorgeous, fragile country that I am so privileged to be spending time in.

Such a beautiful place

So, although I would have loved to have got ‘that shot’ on one of the wavy high paths that snake out into the canyon, I had to remain on the path (occasionally muttering darkly about pop stars and ‘influencers’ who, it seems, aren’t bound by the same rules as the rest of us) and stick to the well-trodden pathways. But you know what? Even from here, the views are so very stunning and so sublimely beautiful that it really is not a hardship to follow the rules.

One of my favourite views down this beautiful canyon

So… back to this stunningly beautiful canyon. It is around 2km long and 100 metres deep at its deepest, and they think the canyon might be some 2 million years old. The path that has been carefully laid, ends in a new viewing platform, added during 2020, from which you can get a great view of the Mögárfoss waterfall at the point where the Mögá river, the Fjaðrá river, and a smaller reddish-coloured creek all come together.

As with so many other places in Iceland, there were scenes from Game of Thrones (series 8) that were shot here in Fjaðrárgljúfur, where you will see dragons flying in the canyon in the snows of winter. I haven’t yet been there in winter - it looks stunning from the GOT footage I’ve seen - although I have to say I do love it in the summer too.

On the viewpoint at the Mögárfoss Waterfall

The hike along the canyon only takes about 20 minutes or so but we were there for far longer, as at every new twist and turn of this wonderful gorge, we were stopping to take more photos - this is one of the loveliest places to visit and rewards you with a new and different view from each twist and turn of the Fjaðrá river.

One of the most beautiful places I’ve yet seen in Iceland (which is saying something!!) and an absolute must-see.