Viðey Island

Viðey is an island just off the shore of Reykjavík, but a world away in feel. Long and flattish, it has two main areas connected by a narrow strip of land and it is a haven for nesting birds in season. It is only a short boat trip away from the hustle and bustle of city life. The small ferry departs daily in summer and just at weekends in winter. This weekend it was lovely weather and I was on my own so decided to pop over and explore, with camera of course!

I went over from the Skarfabakki pier at Sundahöfn harbour, which is just a short distance from the centre of downtown Reykjavík. When I went to check out times, there was a departure every hour so I bought my round ticket and waited for quarter past the hour when it was due to depart. It’s a very short crossing, in 15 minutes we were there.

The first place you come to is the Viðey House which is right in front of the jetty as you land, and was the first building constructed out of stone in Iceland. Just to the left of the house is Viðey Church, again one of the oldest in the country, and which is open so it is possible to look around it. The first Icelandic treasurer, Skúli Magnússon, was based on Viðey and had the house (Viðeyjarstofa) built as his residency in the years 1752 to 1755. The Viðeyjarkirkja church next door was inaugurated in 1774. In the four decades Skúli was on Viðey, he turned the place from a farmstead to the country’s greatest residence. In 1793, the King’s governor, Ólafur Stephensen, moved to the island and made Viðeyjarstofa his residence.

In the early 20th century due to increased shipping, a village rose on the eastern part of the island. At that time the best harbour facilities in Faxaflói bay were on Viðey island. The island also had a farmstead but by the mid-20th century the island was more or less deserted.

The Viðey House now has a café which is much welcomed by tourists and walkers and where you can find more information about the island.

Two million years ago, Viðey was an active volcano, and the rock of Viðey island is the oldest in the Reykjavík area. It is an important historical site in Iceland's history. Archaeological excavations have shown that the island was already inhabited in the 10th century, soon after the settlement of Iceland around 900 AD. In 1225 an Augustine monastery was founded on the island, and subsequently Viðey belonged to the royal estate of Bessastaðir so there is much history associated with the place.

I hadn’t known any of this when I went over there. I just fancied exploring this pretty island I’d seen so often from Reykjavík and enjoying the views and the sunshine, and it didn’t disappoint.

I spent the next few hours just wandering and taking photographs. From the flower-strewn meadows to the rugged coastline, from views of mountains to views of the Reykjavík skyline, every twist and turn had new pleasures. It is a delightful place to wander and while away an afternoon in peace and tranquility.

The island has been uninhabited since the 1950s and is now a natural and unspoiled haven for plants and birdlife. Although at first glance it looks as if it is just grassland, apparently today 156 species of plants grow on Viðey, one-third of the flora of Iceland. Many species of birds make their home there too including the eider duck, fulmar, greylag goose, snipe, purple sandpiper and oystercatcher. About 30 species of birds breed on the island so it is a great attraction for birdwatchers.

With an extensive network of trails, the island can be easily explored on foot. It only covers 1.7 square kilometres so it can be explored within a relatively short time. No matter which path you take, there are spectacular views of the surrounding mainland, to the west, you can see the outline of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, and looking away from Reykjavík there is the stunning outline of the ever-present Esja mountain.

*Abundant bird life and Esja in the background*

On Viðey there is lots of artwork by both local and foreign artists. Nine pairs of basalt columns stand on the western part of the island. This is an artwork by the American sculpter Richard Serra called Milestones. In the area there are also inscribed stones by unknown artists. Yoko Ono's Imagine Peace Tower stands by Viðeyjarnaust and by Kvennagönguhólar stands a statue of the Virgin Mary that was put up in 1994 to commemorate 1000 years of Christianity in Iceland. In Viðeyjarstofa, a collection of paintings by renowned Icelandic artists are on display.

The Imagine Peace Tower

Perhaps the only thing Viðey is known for internationally is that it is the location for the Imagine Peace Tower. This is an outdoor work of art conceived by Yoko Ono in memory of John Lennon. This monument symbolizes peace and joy. On the column of the tower “IMAGINE PEACE” is written in 24 different languages.

The tower itself is not a construction but consists of light. When lit, there is a vertical beam of blue light that stretches far into the sky (created by 15 search lights with prisms that act as mirrors, reflecting the light vertically into the sky). On a clear night it stretches an incredibly long way up and it can be seen from just about anywhere in Reykjavík. Every year, it is lit in the evenings from the day of John Lennon´s birthday (October 9th) until the day he was killed (December 8th). It is also lit on some other evenings during the year such as Yoko´s birthday on February 8th and New Year´s Eve. It is lit from around 1 hour after sunset until midnight each night except on John & Yoko’s birthdays and on New Year’s Eve, when it remains lit until sunrise.

*The Imagine Peace Tower, lit up and viewed from Reykjavík*

Iceland was chosen as the setting for the tower because it usually ranks as the most peaceful country globally. Since the tower is all about peace, it seemed only fitting to situate it in Iceland. According to Yoko Ono: “Iceland is a magical and beautiful country. The electrical energy source for the country and for the Imagine Peace Tower is geothermal – water, instead of oil. No pollution. No war. This is just one of the incredible situations that creates the magic of Iceland.”

It's amazing that this island, where art, history, and nature meet lies just beyond the city shore. The combination of stunning views, historical ruins, and contemporary art pieces make Viðey island something quite special. Just a short boat ride takes you to another world, to be explored in your own time. With its nesting birds and panoramic views this is an oasis of peace, beauty, and history close to Reykjavík, but a world away.

Grótta Lighthouse

Húsafell