Where the sea meets the sky…
Looking across the Sky Lagoon to the horizon beyond
Find your oasis where sea meets sky - this is one of the phrases used to advertise one of Iceland’s newest geothermal spas, the Sky Lagoon. Opened in spring 2021 the Sky Lagoon is located just minutes from central Reykjavík and yet feels a world away. Nestled in a cliff in Kársnes Harbour, Kópavogur, this immersive swimming and thermal spa experience is truly a one of a kind.
One of the first views of the lagoon as you exit the changing rooms
The journey to it can seem a little disorientating as the Sky Lagoon is located in an industrial area, with factories, industrial units, piles of pallets in whichever direction you look and the first time we went, I was convinced we must have taken the wrong direction; I mean, a luxury spa experience couldn’t possibly be located here could it?? And yet, as you turn the last corner, opening out into the car park of the Sky Lagoon itself, you begin to see the perfect sense behind its location.
Positioned at the tip of the promontory of land that juts out into the sea, south of the main area of Reykjavik, the views are phenomenal. If you look in one direction you can see the Reykjavík skyline, dominated by the mighty Hallgrímskirkja, and if you look in the other, you can see the mountains and volcanos on the way to Keflavík. And of course in every direction there is the sea, ever changing and moving.
It’s hard to tell where the lagoon ends, and the sea and sky begin
Having parked, and entered the minimalist building set into the landscape, we queued for a few moments before reaching the reception desk. The staff there talk you through the process and explain how the wristbands work (by the time we visited for the first time we were beginning to get used to the wristband system, which when linked with your credit card, not only grants you access to the different areas of the spa, but can be used to buy drinks, food or even upgrade your pass if you have bought the basic package and find you want to indulge in the full Sky Lagoon Ritual after all. It is possible to simply pay for access to the pool and spend as long as you like in the warm geothermal waters, whilst soaking in the views at the infinity edge that overlooks the ocean. However, if you choose to, you can experience the full seven-step Ritual which is all about wellbeing and relaxation. We wanted to do it all so I had treated Matthew to the top of the range pass with private changing rooms and full use of all the facilities. Since then, we have invested in a multi-pass, which gives us six separate trips, with the full Ritual included, at a very much reduced price. What a lovely thing to have at our disposal for a weekend treat if the weather turns out to scupper our plans for travelling! In fact, the weekend just gone, we decided to go on both Saturday and Sunday, partly because I have recently damaged the ligaments in my knee and the geothermal water, combined with the cold water of the plunge pool was fantastic therapy, resulting in a pretty much pain-free weekend – well worth the price in my opinion – and partly because I had discovered that Sunday 20th February was Konudagur or Women’s Day. Konudagur is the first day of the Icelandic month of Goa, and always falls on a Sunday as the days begin to lengthen after the worst of the Icelandic winter, and the weather becomes milder. More importantly it’s the official day in Iceland for Icelanders to appreciate and pamper the women in their lives. Well, I was definitely up for that, so Sky Lagoon it was!
The winter wind may be causing waves in the warm water but the skies are beginning to look bluer….
And talking of pampering, this is definitely the place to do it. Once you’ve put your stuff safely in your locker (locked with the wristband of course) you head for the showers and, as is the case everywhere in Iceland you are asked to shower and wash thoroughly without your swimsuit on. After showering and changing you then enter the warm geothermal waters through a cave tunnel and down some shallow steps.
Heading down the steps into the lagoon, and following the route round, then looking back at the ‘cave’ entrance to the changing rooms….
As I descended the steps and sank deeper into the warmth of the water (38-40°C or 100 to 104° F) I could feel the cares of the day just drifting away. It’s funny watching people walking into the lagoon for the first time; almost everyone seems to give the same sigh of sheer pleasure as they feel the warmth of the water envelop them. Emerging out from the tunnel-like steps, you wade through the warm, steamy water with rocky walls rising up around you in a curving path that suddenly opens out as you turn a corner to the view of the lagoon itself. It’s quite incredible, the sight of this large pool of water with little rocky outcrops in it, and an infinity edge that seems to merge into and become one with the sea ahead of you as you look out at the city beyond. The lagoon is surrounded by the same rocky banks with a waterfall at one end, splashing into the lagoon itself. Such fun to duck behind it and feel the water pouring over you and the warm mist from the waterfall soaking you, even behind the drop.
Bathers enjoying the waterfall
The ocean-side infinity edge of the pool is a very popular spot for photographs and at any time there are dozens of Instagram-worthy pictures being created as people gaze over the edge to the ocean and city beyond. At first, particularly on your first visit, you just don’t know which way to look for wonderful views and photo opportunities and I remember we flitted about, exploring the whole lagoon for ages. As you follow the lagoon round, you see the turfhouse, built to a traditional Klömbruhleðsla technique using volcanic ash-dense turf tilework. Apparently, the creation and building of the turfhouse was overseen by one of the only living experts left in Iceland and it is inspired by Icelandic nature and heritage. Between the lagoon and the turfhouse is the cold plunge pool which forms part of the seven step ritual.
Beyond the lagoon, the plunge pool and turf house awaits
Following the curves of the lagoon round to the left from here, is another discovery; probably one of the coolest bars ever! Set into the man-made rocky cliff walls, like an overhanging cave is the swim-up lagoon bar. Serving everything from beer to sparkling wine and champagne, and a selection of soft drinks, you can swim or wade to the bar at any time and, using the wristband, order your drinks (in acrylic glasses for safety of course). There is a limit of three alcoholic drinks per person per visit but soft drinks are unlimited so it’s easy to stay hydrated – very important when spending any length of time in the warm geothermal water.
Possibly one of the coolest bars ever….
Around the edges of the lagoon are many little nooks and natural looking alcoves where it is possible to sit and chat and enjoy your drinks, in a cosy little intimate space. Members of staff periodically wade around the lagoon with a big basket or bucket collecting the empty glasses to return to the bar. It is possible to spend many a happy hour here, sipping your drink of choice - cold prosecco in my case – and people watching, with the occasional lazy swim or float to the bar to return or replenish your glass… utter bliss. Due to the layout of the lagoon, the temperature varies a little from place to place, so you can choose an area to stand, sit or lie in the water that is absolutely the perfect temperature.
Taken on our latest trip here, the snowy banks contrasting with the warmth of the water
With sustainability being their key focus, Sky Lagoon, uses geothermal energy as their primary energy source to keep the lagoon hot. Fresh hot water constantly enters the lagoon and warm water flows out. The warm water exiting the lagoon is captured and used to heat spring water for the showers, to heat the buildings by an underfloor system and even to heat up the pavement around the buildings to keep the areas free of snow and ice in the winter…. So clever and so efficient!
And then of course, when you’ve spent a nice long time drifting, floating and generally just enjoying the experience of soaking in this fabulous water there is the Ritual to be done! This is the really pampering part.
Step 1 is what I’ve already been describing; soaking your stresses and cares away in the geothermal waters of the lagoon itself.
Step 2 is a dip in the cold plunge pool. Now this is the part that – to be honest – most people avoid, because the water is cold. Really cold. Apparently it is about 10°C which I find very hard to believe, as when you get in, it feels as if that pool is filled with ice-water that has just flowed down from the nearest glacier! Many people don’t get in beyond the second step as the water reaches somewhere between ankle and knee height and the shock of the cold starts to hit. This is the aspect of the Icelandic hot tub culture that I have found the hardest to understand up to now; why, just why would you choose to do that to yourself?? But for the first time on this trip, after 7 months of living here, it started to make sense. The combination of hot and cold is considered to be very healthy and great for the circulation. From my point of view with ligament damage to my knee it was also very beneficial to the joint to alternate hot and cold water. And having done it - because I had to - I discovered that it does actually feel good. I think I’m becoming more Icelandic by the day!! So that’s step 2 – whether the plunge lasts for a few minutes or a few nanoseconds is up to you!
Step 3 takes you into the turf house itself and to the sauna. But this is a sauna like no other I’ve ever been in. Nothing like the small, dark, wooden saunas I’ve used before, this room is big – and filled with natural light. The reason for this is that the front wall of the sauna, overlooking the Atlantic ocean, is one huge window. At 2.5 tons in weight and 20 square metres in size, this is apparently the biggest window in all of Iceland, and the view from it is, as you’d imagine, both beautiful and dramatic: a huge expanse of sea, the colour of which changes according to the weather, with sweeping views, including the Snæfellsjökull glacier and the Keilir mountain which is such a landmark on the route from Reykjavík to Keflavík, so perfectly triangular that it looks like a child’s drawing of what a volcano should look like. As we sat in the sauna this time we watched the reflection of the setting sun stream golden across the grey sea, and even a couple of ducks bobbing along on the choppy waves. There is something bizarre and mesmerising about sitting in the heat of a sauna, looking out at this vast expanse of ocean and mountains, the window so clear that it feels as if you are open to the elements that you can see outside.
An almost never-ending view across the fjord as you relax in the sauna
Step 4, when you can tear yourself away from the sauna, is a small enclosure where you are bathed in an energising cold mist, so wet it’s like a cross between fog and drizzle and so cold that your skin tightens and tingles after the heat of the sauna. Apparently it’s meant to emulate the natural chilly fogs that often shroud Iceland, recreating that natural outdoor feel. And it really does feel as if you are outdoors. Again, due to the cold of the mist, this step gets skipped by many!
Step 5 takes us out from the mist room to an open area where dozens of small shallow dishes have been prepared with their Sky Lagoon body scrub; based on the ancient recipes used by the Vikings in their turf houses centuries ago. Made of sea salt, coconut, almond oil, sesame and grape along with local botanicals it feels great as you rub it into your skin. This is a body scrub, not for the delicate skin of the face, but feels very indulgent and healthy. Once the scrub has been rubbed in, it’s time for:
Step 6 – the steam room. With steam so dense that it is impossible to see anything for a few moments, you need to gingerly feel your way round the room until your eyes adjust. Sitting in the humidity of the steam, the oils from the body scrub soak into your skin and the salt begins to dissolve, filling the air with the scent of the botanicals used, as you breathe in the steam. By the time you leave the steam room your skin feels so soft and nourished.
Step 7 is an invigorating shower (at a temperature of your choice, warm or cold) and then back into the silky warm waters of the lagoon itself. The whole process leaves you feeling indulged, pampered and very very relaxed.
It is not a cheap day out but it is a very enjoyable one, and as a relaxed and gentle way to feel pampered and looked after on Konudagur it really couldn’t be bettered.
Far more than just another luxurious treat for the tourists, this is a celebration of Iceland’s history and culture. In the words of Sky Lagoon’s Marketing Manager, “We wanted Sky Lagoon to tell the story of Icelandic bathing culture and give people a chance to discover the Icelander’s ancient love for geothermal bathing in a beautiful natural setting. Immersing in water is how we treat ourselves, from childhood swimming lessons to the elderly meeting in hot tubs, this is our core, it is who we are”.
