Brúarhlöð - the green canyon

Brúarhlöð Canyon with its odd rock formations and opaque green water

Brúarhlöð is a new discovery to us. We only discovered it when researching the Golden Circle/Flúðir area to see if there was anything around that we hadn’t yet seen. We had booked a remote cabin for the Saturday night so that we could get away and enable me to revise with no distractions for my Icelandic level 5 exam that was coming up in a few days, but we had thought it would be nice to visit somewhere on our way there, as we knew we wouldn’t be able to check in until around 3pm. Matthew spent a little time on Google Maps, looking at the surrounding area and found what looked like a promising place. On googling Brúarhlöð, we discovered that it looked rather unusual, with its odd rock formations and green water so we decided to visit.

Brúarhlöð Gorge seen from above

Brúarhlöð is a narrow gorge in the Hvitá River and is only about three kilometers south of the Gullfoss, so right in the Golden Circle itself. However, it doesn’t seem to have made it onto the radar of most tourists so it is quite possible to have this lovely place to yourself, even in high season. I’ve seen it referred to as the ‘hidden canyon in the Golden Circle’.

Matthew looking down the gorge

We visited at the beginning of June and although some other people did stop and visit while we were there, for the first 15 or 20 minutes we were quite alone to enjoy the peace and tranquility of the place. I don’t know whether it’s because of the opaque green water, or the unusually rounded rock formations that make up the sides of the canyon but this place had a real otherworldliness to it as well as a sense of stillness and total calm that is unusual, even in Iceland. As we stood and took it all in I found myself almost wanting to whisper so as not to break the silence and peace of the place.

The Hvitá is a very powerful river and over the years has formed the rocks into pillars and unusual rounded formations. The rock here is Breccia (Hyaloclastite) which is composed of broken mineral fragments; it was originally formed by volcanic and tectonic force, which gave the canyon its present look, which is quite unlike most other places in Iceland.

There is a parking area just off the route 30 beside a large bridge, which was apparently built in 1959 after the first two bridges washed away, the first one in 1929 and the second in 1930, which is a timely reminder of just how powerful the Hvitá river can be at times. The car park is right beside the river so it is very accessible and you can see it whilst crossing the bridge. I suspect that most visitors probably come across it by accident when driving from Flúðir to Reykholt, as they cross the river and see the stunning landscape from the bridge.

Looking back towards the bridge we just managed to catch sight of a raft making its way down the gorge

There is a short hiking trail that winds up to the canyon, and it is possible to wander down to the river itself, or to walk along the top of the canyon. We did both and whilst walking along the top of the canyon we could see plains covered by grasses and mossy rocks, as well as the gorgeous milky green river. This is a lovely area for a picnic and to just relax in the peaceful surroundings. The best vantage point is from the top of the canyon, from where we could see the pillars in the river and the rock formations along the banks. Apparently, it is rumoured that two of the big stacks in the canyon are actually two trolls called Karl and Kerling, who watch over the area. If so, they are clearly benign trolls and don’t mind visitors, as the atmosphere is calm and very welcoming!

I’m not sure if this is Karl or Kerling but it’s very impressive

The chalky water of the Hvita river seems to almost glow when seen against the dark rock sides of the canyon. The water originates from the Langjökull glacier and is filled with fine glacial sediments.  But whereas most of the glacial water we’ve seen has been a gorgeous blue colour, this particular part of the river, presumably due to the particular minerals of the area is not blue but green, and has a chalky, milky appearance that helps to give the area its otherworldly look.

Another view of the milky green water and rounded rocks

The Hvitá River is a popular place for river rafting, and rafting through Brúarhlöð looks as if it would be a wonderful adventure due to the magnificent natural landscape and the rock formations. There are rapids just downstream from the bridge which add to the excitement and while we were there we saw a group who were rafting down this section of the Hvitá. However, when they got to Brúarhlöð itself, they stopped and got out to enjoy a bit more excitement as they climbed the steep banks of the narrow gorge and proceeded to leap from the top into the river with shrieks of excitement (and in some cases what sounded like genuine fear!). It was great fun to stop and watch them - although I’m not too sure if I’d have the courage to do it myself!!

This detour on our way to Flúðir and our little wooden cabin has made us realise just how easy it is to miss out on some of Iceland’s hidden treasures by just taking the main roads or the quickest routes from A to B. We are now making it our mission to factor in extra time for trips, to be able to take some of the smaller roads and hopefully find some more hidden gems. Watch this space!