Hvammsvík hot springs
A moody-weather shot looking out over the tidal pool and the fjord
One thing that you learn very quickly about Iceland is that there are a lot of geothermal pools and spas – and I mean a lot! The Icelanders are very good at harnessing the natural hot water springs that occur in areas of geothermal activity and creating beautiful places to bathe. Every now and then a new one pops up and becomes the latest place to go to. This happened this year with Hvammsvík. The latest ‘must-visit’ place near Reykjavík, the Hvammsvík hot springs opened to the public in the early summer of 2022 and we were lucky enough to hear about it and to visit it when it was still relatively newly open and so had very few visitors indeed. It rapidly became our favourite weekend destination and, being so close to Reykjavík, we were able to either incorporate it into a weekend away or just to head out from the apartment and spend the best part of a day there, before returning home later in the day or into the evening.
There can be few more natural settings for a hot soak
Located in Hvalfjörður (which means Whale Fjord), a historic and remote fjord about an hour northeast of Reykjavik, the 1,200-acre family-owned estate is home to eight hot springs that are heated from the property’s own geothermal source some 1,400 metres (4,593 feet) underground.
The largest pool up by the main building, looking down from the bar
This estate was founded more than a thousand years ago by the Vikings and is recorded in the Icelandic book of settlers called the Landnáma, which dates back to the 11th century. The area became a naval headquarters during World War II, and at one point there were more than 40,000 soldiers and 200 ships stationed there. During the War Hvammsvík was code named “Falcon Crest” and “Falcon Beach” in order not to reveal its true location.
The design of the building reflects the military history of this place
Today, the area feels remote and private with its dramatic landscapes, even though it really isn’t that remote from the capital. But it is a perfect place to have created this stunning geothermal spa as it feels as if you are in the middle of nowhere, and the views are just staggeringly beautiful. On our first visit, Hvammsvík instantly became our favourite hot water venue, as it feels more natural than anywhere else we have yet been. This was deliberate on the part of the people who created this amazing space!
The designers have used natural materials for the hard landscaping to fit in with the surrounding natural landscape
The Hvammsvík Hot Springs concept was inspired by the Old Hot Spring that has been on the property for decades, as well as rock formations that are seen along the coastline in Hvammsvík. All the pools were built using rocks from the surroundings, in harmony with the nature and wildlife. As a result, the place looks as if it has been there for pretty much forever – probably because all the natural materials that have created it, have!
A winter morning at Hvammsvík, just as the sun is starting to rise
The actual buildings are constructed on the original barrack foundations that were built by the allied troops during World War II and the design reflects that history, with its arched corrugated iron frame. As you walk in to the main building you come into the reception area which doubles up as the café/restaurant. Unlike the simplicity of the outside structure, the interior is beautifully designed and features many works of art by Icelandic artists such as Ólafur Elíasson, Birgir Andrésson, Shoplifter, and more. Even the flooring has been create using materials sourced from the surrounding area such as sand, seashells and stones from the beach. And, for some bizarre reason, there is an incredibly lifelike waxwork of a policeman by the doors to the changing rooms, that certainly fooled me at first!
Having changed in the changing rooms you walk out of the other side to discover the various pools. There are eight different pools of different sizes and on different levels of the slope down to the black sandy beach, and the sea water of Hvalfjörður itself. The first thing that struck me when I saw Hvammsvík for the very first time was the tranquillity and serenity of the place…. And of course the stunning beauty of its surroundings. This place is just gorgeous. With mountains all around you and the beautiful fjord stretched out ahead of you, it is hard to imagine a better setting for a geothermal bathing area. What can be better than soaking in gloriously warm water, outside in such a beautiful place?
Looking back towards the in-pool bar of the main pool
On my very first visit, I’d gone with Imogen – having heard about this new spa that had recently opened, it seemed a perfect opportunity for a girls’ trip together and it was also lovely to do something that was new to both of us. We had the best day there, trying out the various pools and deciding which pool at which temperature was our favourite. We also (of course) tried out swimming in the sea itself, braving the cold by knowing that we could head straight back into one of the warm pools afterwards. Incredibly, we had the place almost to ourselves; there were very few people there, as it had been open for such a short time that not many people had yet heard about it. I loved it so much that I took Matthew back the following weekend, and it has since become a firm favourite of ours and a regular treat.
This place already feels as if it’s been here forever
The water levels and the temperatures at Hvammsvík fluctuate with the tides that wash in and out of this quiet fjord from the North Atlantic ocean, which just adds to the enjoyment as with each visit, the experience will be slightly different. The hottest pool is the original one; called Gamla Laugin (the old pool) it has existed there for over 30 years and apparently many people locally remember sneaking into it for a dip! The smallest of the eight pools, Gamla Laugin is too hot for us to stay in for too long, but lovely for a short time. In contrast, the ocean itself is too cold to stay in for long - but lovely for a short time!
Enjoying a cold dip in the ocean - apparently the water was 4°C… somewhat different from the 40°C of the hottest pools
The eye to detail and design that was evident in the restaurant and indoor areas of Hvammsvík continues outside. Apart from the fact that all the pools look very natural and are created using the rocks that were found on and around the beach, even the paths and wood and rope handrails echo the natural look of the place and complement the beauty of the surroundings. As a result, Hvammsvík is in complete harmony with its setting and doesn’t detract from it at all. It’s been brilliantly done.
The path from the upper pools to the lower pools
The lowest of the pools is the tidal pool, which is down on the beach itself. This pool disappears completely at high tide. It’s a surreal experience to be in the warm water as the tide rises around you, then gradually starts to trickle and flow over the rocks into the pool itself, cooling it down. Eventually, the water in this tidal pool is almost the same temperature as the sea… and then it submerges completely and becomes one with the sea.
As the tide comes in, the tidal pool gradually becomes completely submerged
After a couple of hours of relaxing in the water we somehow seem to find that we are very hungry, so we get dressed and head into the small restaurant for a bite of lunch. There is a very small menu with half a dozen or so items on offer and the food is simple but very well done; mostly open sandwiches on sourdough and their own seafood soup. With a well stocked bar and such lovely food it is a real treat to eat there and of course there are still the views….
Appetite satisfied, it’s time to head back into the water. You would think it would get boring, but somehow it’s possible to spend the whole day here immersed in the warm waters, looking up at the clouds, taking in the surroundings and watching the antics of the many eider ducks on the beach and often glimpsing seals in the water of the fjord. We have even had the incredible experience of swimming in the bracingly cold sea water of the fjord itself, only to look up and find that we were surrounded by five curious seals who had come to observe these strange creatures in their habitat. I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw their heads pop up and watch us, looking for all the world like big whiskery dogs as they bobbed up, observed for a few moments, then disappeared back under the water, popping up a few seconds later in a completely different place! We stayed there for about 10-15 minutes, just mesmerised by these incredible creatures and hardly believing our good fortune…. Until the biting cold of the water had caused our hands and feet to go beyond numb to painful, at which point we had to reluctantly bid farewell to our seal friends and flee for the hot water of the upper pools. This was one of my most treasured experiences and something I shall never ever forget! We have seen the seals on subsequent visits but not yet been in such close proximity. However I remain hopeful that we may one day be able to repeat our watery encounter with them.
An encounter with a curious seal and (below) a little bit of video footage - not easy to get because (a) I was so cold my hands were shaking by this point and (b) you never knew where the seals would pop up next!!
As we’ve visited at various times over the autumn and winter (even swimming in the sea in December!) we have experienced Hvammsvík in glorious sunshine, rain, wind and even snow and every time has been fabulous. It’s definitely getting busier and Hvammsvík was recently named the Number 1 best thing to do in the world in 2023 by Timeout Magazine! I’m sure that will result in a huge increase in the number of visitors over this year and part of me is rather sad about that as part of the draw of this amazing place is the sense of timelessness and peace and quiet. But it is wonderful that a new business is doing so well and that it will ensure that Hvammsvík is here to stay for a very long time.
