Kolugljúfur and the Kolufossar falls
On one of our many trips up to the north, we stopped for a cup of coffee and the café had a huge black and white picture of a beautiful waterfall, or rather set of falls, and I asked them to let me know where it was. Having been told it was at Kolugljúfur, I jotted down the name (misspelling it horrendously of course) and set my mind on tracking this lovely place down. Eventually with a bit of research I found it, and on our way back to Reykjavík we detoured off the main Route 1 ring road to check it out.
I have been back several times since, and love this place. The name Kolugljúfur is actually the name of the canyon that the waterfalls are found in, and it simply means Kola’s Canyon. Both the canyon and the waterfalls (Kolufossar) are named after a giantess called Kola, who was once said to live in the area. She was said to sit on a nearby ledge at night and grab the salmon travelling up the water by hand, before throwing them in a nearby hot spring to cook them. In the hayfield at Kolugil (the farmstead that was also named after her) there is a hill where Kola, as well as her treasure is said to be buried. Apparently the hill is protected under her spell.
The gorge is approximately 1 kilometre long and up to 60 metres (197 ft) wide. It is also some 40-50 metres deep and contains the river Víðidalsá, renowned for its salmon (so Kola clearly knew what she was doing making her home there!). Strangely enough, it is relatively unknown and has relatively few visitors so it’s perfectly possible to be the only people there, which makes a very nice change from places like Gullfoss or Dettifoss in the summer which can be packed with tourists, making it difficult to get good pictures or even just enjoy the surroundings in peace.
To get there we took the route 715 off the main route 1, south of Blönduós, and in less than 10 minutes we were there. There is a car park beside a bridge that spans the Kolugljúfur canyon and you can get wonderful views of the waterfalls from the bridge, so it is super-easy to visit, without even needing to do any hiking. Having said that, it is worth taking a walk along the canyon as there are further waterfalls and stunning views all along it. This place is quite spectacular and, whilst it is nowhere near as big or as stunning as some of the more famous canyons like Fjaðrárgljúfur, Stakkholtsgjá or Stuðlagil, there is something quite special about it. At least, I think so. I don’t think Matthew really understands what the pull is for me, but every time we go up north, I try to incorporate a detour to see this gorge. I’m not sure what it is that gets to me so much about it but I do find it a very beautiful place. The main waterfall (Kolufossar is a collective name for all the various waterfalls in the Kolugljúfur canyon, so I don’t know if the main falls are called by a different name or not or if they are just known as Kolufossar) tumbles down in several drops, separated by the rock formation they tumble over, which can lead to some pretty spectacular photographs, particularly those I’ve seen that have been taken using a drone – but even from the bridge it is possible to get some pretty amazing shots.
There are two observation platforms that have been set up for people to be able to observe the waterfalls safely. Having said that, as stunning as the Kolugljúfur canyon is, it is also apparently one of the top 10 most dangerous tourist places to visit in the country. The canyon itself is quite deep with almost vertical cliffs, and despite the safe platforms that have been put up, there is nothing to stop you from going to the very edges of the cliff. Well, there is one sign – which made me laugh I must admit – I love the way that in Iceland they will plonk a sign down and then expect people to use their common sense and not get carried away while admiring the beauty of the glorious waterfalls or while taking pictures.
And most of the time people do seem to be sensible. To be honest, I’ve seen as many people teetering on the edge of steep vertical drops and leaning over canyons in places where there are railings (which they have ignored or climbed over) as somewhere like Kolugljúfur where there are none. Unfortunately, there is no deterring those who will take stupid risks for ‘that’ Instagram shot….
Although many people park up, take their shots of the waterfalls and then head off again, it is well worth a walk along the canyon as there are other waterfalls that are also very beautiful, and the canyon itself is very lovely. There are pathways a little way from the edge, so it is possible to take a walk and get some lovely photographs whilst staying safe.
I have found it very interesting visiting this place at different times of the year, as it can look very different from season to season. When we went in April, the water volume was so great that the main waterfall had become one thundering torrent and looked very different from its normal appearance.
But whatever the season and the weather, this is a place well worth visiting. It also breaks up what can be a long stretch of driving if making the journey from Reykjavík to Akureyri or back and is a welcome stop for a bit of a walk in some very beautiful surroundings.